Apple Seasons:

Early - July and first half of August

2nd early - second half of August & September

Mid - October and November

Late - December and January

Very Late - February onwards

All our trees are guaranteed for 12 months, providing correct planting procedure has been carried out.

PLANTING AN APPLE TREE

1. Select a suitable position; bear in mind elevation, prevailing wind speeds, previous vegetation (in particular invasive species), and salt laden winds. These factors will determine the choice of varieties suitable for your land.

2. Cut the turf at least a square metre or 3 foot square. Remove the turf and and dig over whole square to a depth of at least 250mm.

3. Dig a hole in the centre of the square to a size double the container size.

4. It is preferable not to stake the tree if possible. However if required drive the stake, (no bigger than 1.5"x1.5"), into the bottom of the hole slightly offset towards the direction of the prevailing wind.

5. Plant the tree; if you tease out the roots do this with tremendous care. A common problem at present is the over zealous teasing of roots  .

6. Backfill. Unless you have exceptionally poor soil, do not add any fertiliser or feed. Indeed it will not be necessary to feed the tree until 2 seasons after it has been planted.

PRUNING AN APPLE TREE

You will come across countless different methods of pruning - most of which will be correct. As such I am only listing a few golden rules and these rules do not cover amenity trees - if you are pruning for amenity purposes only, please consult any good manual prior to operations. If you are in any doubt about the pruning of your established trees I strongly recommend calling in the experts. The principle danger is the exposure to diseases which would affect your crop - however many experts or owners of succesful orchards would reiterate the advice that 'Apple trees are considerably hardier than many appreciate as such it is better to do as little as possible to the trees and then usually only after at least 10 - 12 years and after ensuring the trees are well fed - particularly in Cornwall.'

NEVER ATTEMPT TO CUT ABOVE THE HEAD HEIGHT WITH A CHAINSAW OR EQUIVALENT UNLESS QUALIFIED IN TREE SURGERY - THERE IS STILL A REGULAR THROUGHFLOW OF PATIENTS IN THE NHS WHO HAVE ATTEMPTED THIS

1. Consider pruning and maintenance requirements in December and carry out in January. 

2. Prior to pruning consider the roots and basal area first. A good mulch of well rotten organic matter is always appreciated by the tree and should be carried out a full year before considering hard pruning an unproductive specimen. 

3. Ensure every cut is clean and at an angle which will not allow droplets of water to lie. Allow at least 2" or 50mm from the cut to the branching.

4. If the limb is heavy - First make a cut on the bottom of the limb to be removed at least 25% deep; next cut further up the limb, from the top, straight through. Lastly move down the limb and make a further clean cut, from the top, with a small toothed blade, removing the area cut in the previous stages.

5. (Not really a golden rule - but good advice) - If you do bring in an expert - Fruit tree timber of the right size and clean is valuable, (particularly Cherry Wood), prior to cutting good sized lengths of wood up for the fire, (which is great - the smell is second to none), do not allow them to take away the timber at a cost to you - this wood may defer costs to the maintenance of your trees.